Victorian 18ct Gold Ruby and Diamond Navette Ring

A fine Victorian navette ring in 18ct yellow gold, set with five graduated rubies flanked by old mine-cut diamonds. The elongated boat-shaped head – known as a navette or marquise – was one of the most fashionable ring forms of the late nineteenth century, designed to elongate the finger and make a statement without overwhelming the hand.
The construction here is everything you want to see in a genuine Victorian piece. The diamonds are old mine cuts, showing that distinctive cushion-shaped outline with small tables, high crowns and those chunky, irregular facets that catch the light so differently from modern stones. They're set in individual claw settings arranged in two rows flanking the central ruby line, each stone sitting in its own little nest of gold.