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Glossary




Makers Mark

A signature of craftsmen. 

Matrix

A geological term referring to the host rock on which  mineral is contained.

Matte

A texture on metal that is created by forming tiny abrasions on the top layer to create a finish that is without gloss or lustre.

Memento Mori

Latin for remember that you must die.  A symbol which intends to remind the viewer of their mortality. Common motifs include skulls, hourglasses and wilting flowers.

Millefiori

Decorative glasswork technique meaning a thousand flowers. Long coloured glass rods fused together and cut in cross sections to create small tesserae.

Minaudière

A substitute for an evening bag originally designed by Van Cleef & Arples for Mrs. Florence J. Gould in 1930. Usually made out of plated metal and embellished.

Mizpah

Hebrew for watchtower. In the Victorian era jewellery engraved with Mizpah became popular and was given as a token of love or friendship.

Mohs Scale

A scale used to rank gems and mineral hardness on a scale from 1 to 10, where diamonds are 10 and talc is 1. 

Mosaic

The decoration of a surface using small stones, tiles or glass to create an image or pattern.

Muff Chain

A long chain that was worn around the neck and attached to muff (a fur cylinder used to keep hands warm).

Necklace

A piece of jewellery worn around the neck.

Nefer-sign

Egyptian hieroglyph for beautiful.

Negligee

A necklace that usually sits below the collarbone with two irregular lengths coming from the centre with tassels or gemstones on the end. 

Nicolo

Onyx engraved in intaglio or cameo.

Niello

A black coloured compound created of silver, lead , copper and sulfur that is used in inlays on engraved or etched metal. 

Niello

 A black alloy usually made of sulphur, copper, silver and lead which is used to fill incised material thus increasing the contrast of the design.

Objet de Vertu

Small objects of artistic quality. Often used by the wealthy in the 18th century. Often made of precious metal and embellished. 

Old European cut

A cut of diamond popular from 1890 to 1930 in Europe. These gems were hand cut with high crown and small table which allows for a disbursement of light which creates a ‘fire’ rather than brilliance. This ‘fire’ is a multicoloured flash of light from within the stone.

Old Mine Cut

An antique cut of diamonds. A cushion shaped cut with a high crown, deep pavilion, small table with 58 facets. Old mine cuts were cut by hand. 

Opera chain

A long necklace which can be worn as a single strand or doubled to create a two strand necklace.

Optical phenomenon

A stone with a specific structure, inclusion or properties that interact with light creating an unusual visual effect. These include ; adularescence, play of colour, iridescence, asterism, chatoyancy, colour change and labradorescence.

Opus interrasile

Intricate style of decoration created by piercing patterns in sheet gold.  

Orfèvrerie

 Goldsmith.

Palladium

 A precious metal which is similar to platinum although not as heavy.

Pampilles

Tassels. In the context of jewelry it refers to a cascade of gemstones ending in a point. 

Parcel-gilt

Silver objects that have been partly gilded.

Parure

A matching set of jewellery; usually a combination of brooch or bracelet, earring and a necklace.

Patina

The natural discolouration of the surface of metal resulting from age.

Pavilion

The lower half of a cut stone. The portion of the gemstone below the girdle.

Pectoral

 Formal Egyptian jewelry worn on chest.

Penannular

Celtic brooch shaped as an incomplete ring and often highly decorated.

Penannular Brooch

A Celtic brooch shaped as an incomplete ring and often highly decorated. 

Pendant

A piece of jewellery that is suspended from another piece of jewellery.  

Pendeloque

A pear shaped brilliant cut of diamond with rounded edges. Often seen on earrings and chandeliers.

Peruzzi cut

A square diamond cut with 58 facets, with small rectangular notches in the top corner. 

Pietra Dura

Hard stone. Florentine mosaic technique where cut gemstones are fitted together perfectly to form an image.

Plasma

Dark green quartz.

Platinum

A precious metal which is very strong and heavy. Silver in colour. 

Pointillé

Decoration created by tiny dots which form a design.

Pomander

A small spherical case with a perforated shell which would be filled with spices or perfumes and worn to maintain a pleasant scent.