Similar to an emerald cut stone with straight step cut facets the asscher cut has clipped corners, a smaller table and a higher crown than modern emerald cut. This cut was created by Joseph Asscher.
Knife edge
A band that is raised and comes to a slight point. Often seen on the shank of a ring.
Lapidary
A person who cuts, polishes or engraves gemstones.
Matte
A texture on metal that is created by forming tiny abrasions on the top layer to create a finish that is without gloss or lustre.
Platinum
A precious metal which is very strong and heavy. Silver in colour.
Acanthus
Ornament based on the leaves of the Mediterranean acanthus plant. Originally used to decorate the capital or Corinthian columns in ancient Greek and Roman architecture.
Acrostic Jewellry
Jewellery where the first letter of each gemstone in the piece is used to spell a word. Popular in the Georgian and Victorian periods.
Acrylic
A plastic resin used by contemporary jewellers since the 1960’s that comes in a variety of colours and opacities.
Agate
A formation of chalcedony that results in coloured layers alternating with milky white layers.
Aigrette
A hair ornament, usually jewelled, that would hold a plume of feathers or a splay of flowers.
Ajouré
Open pattern formed from cutting out metal thus allowing light travel through a stone displaying its full colour.
Albert chain
A double or single watch chain, in varying lengths and links featuring a T-bar which is used to attach to a buttonhole. This style of chain was popularised by Prince Albert and was therefore named after him. These chains are now regularly worn as necklaces.
Alexandrite
A variety of chrysoberyl named after Tsar Alexander II. The stone is extremely light sensitive appearing a blueish green in daylight and a purplish red in incandescent light.
Alloy
A metal made by combining two or more metallic elements.
Amazonstone
(Amazonite) A variety of green microcline. Colours range from a yellow green to a blue green and may have small white streaks.
Ammonite
An extinct sea creature often found as fossils with flat spiral shells.
Ankh-sign
Egyptian hieroglyphic for ‘Life’.
Annealing
Removing brittleness by reheating metal.
Antique
An item, article or object which was created over one hundred years ago.
Archaeological style
Jewelry in the 19th Century that took direct inspiration from archeological discoveries of the time.
Art Deco
In 1925 the
Art Nouveau
Inspired by free-floating forms in the natural world.
Asterism
An optical phenomenon where light reflects from small parallel inclusions on a stone that cross paths and appear like a six pointed star. This can be seen in stones cut ‘en cabochon’.
Austro-Hungarian
A constitutional monarchy which was one of central Europe's major powers between 1867 to 1918.
Baguette cut
A rectangular shaped gemstone cut with straight parallel facets in a step pattern. The word baguette comes from the French translating to 'rod'. The often slender and tapering shapes of these reflective cuts lend themselves well as highlights or secondary gemstones to a centrepiece.
Due to their angular shape the baguette cut is most often seen in Art Deco jewellery.
Bakelite
The name of the first thermosetting resin patented in 1910 by Dr. Leo Baekeland.
Balas Ruby
(Spinel ruby) Misnomer for spinel with a colour close to ruby.
Bangle
An ornament worn around the wrist, with little or no flexibility. Some are hinged to allow the wearer easy removal, others known as slave bangles are a continuous rigid band which must be forced on and off manually.
Bas-relief
The relief or projection of the design from the surface is low or shallow.
Base metal
Any non-precious metal that is used in jewellery is often referred to as base metal.
Beading
Visual effect that can be achieved by arranging solid gold grains to create a border.
Berlin Iron
During the Napoleonic War , gold jewellery donated to the war effort was exchanged for cast iron pieces from the Berlin Iron. Most was produced between 1812-1815.
Bezel
A type of setting that encircles another material (i.e. gemstone) holding it in place.
Bijouterie
Jewellery made of gold and enamels.
Biliment
Article of woman’s attire in sixteenth century consisting of a row of stones or pearls which bordered a ‘gable’ hoods.
Blister pearl
Uneven pearl with a raw underside which is usually hidden by the setting.
Bodkin
An ornamental hairpin popular in the Renaissance. Usually made of gold or silver set with gems.
Bolt ring
A type of clasp often seen on necklaces and bracelets.
Bracelet
A piece of jewellery that is suspended from another piece of jewellery.
Bracteate
Thin sheet of metal applied to coins, medals, jewellery.
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