Glossary

A highly polished smooth, unfaceted stone. 

Design cut in relief.

Fine gold or silver thread twisted into decorative patterns, often inculpating shell or floral motifs. Similar to filigree although more three dimensional. Popular in the first half of the 19th century in France. 

i) An oblong oval containing the names of Egyptian royalty in hieroglyphics.

ii) A small decorative plaque that allows a jewel to be suspended on a pendant 

A cross with four arms that has a circle (or nimbus) around the intersection of the horizontal and vertical.

A series of linked rings usually made of metal.

A sloped edge. A surface created at 45° between two adjoining faces which eases otherwise sharp edges. 

A technique that used to decorate metal through indentation rather than engraving.

Parisian jewellery firm founded by Etienne Nitot in the 1780s. The first recorded location for this firm was a small jewellery store in the Rue St Honoré. Perhaps the greatest achievement of the firm was gaining Napoleon I as a client, which supposedly happened after Nitot rescued the Emperor from an accident involving his carriage. In 1802 Chaumet became the French Emperor's official jeweller and went on to create bespoke pieces for both of the Emperor's weddings, the Coronation Crown and even the hilt of his sword.

The business continued to be run by Nitot family until the fall of the Empire in 1815 when it was purchased by Jean Baptiste Fossin. The Fossin family continued in the tradition of creating fine jewels for the elite in society. Amongst their important clientele included Louis-Phillippe, King of France and Princess Mathilde Bonaparte. With such a prestigious list of clients, Chaumet was expanded abroad and the Fossin's opened a boutique in London entrusted to Jean-Valentin Morel and his son Prosper Morel.

Soon their wares were celebrated by Queen Victoria and they recieved the much coveted Royal Warrant. The control of the firm continued in the hands of the Morel family. In 1889 Chaumet fell into the hands of Prosper's son-in-law Joseph Chaumet and stayed in the Chaumet family until it was sold in 1987 by Investcorp and eventually LVMH in 1999.

Through the Art Deco period Chaumet were recognised as trendsetters of the new style, showcasing at the famed 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Their use of quality gemstones and unusual designs make them a formidable and historic jewellery house.

The first two letters of Christ’s name in Greek ΧΡΙΣΤΟΣ.

Decoration achieved through deep cuts.

A classic single string of graduated pearls.

An approximate date. 

A method of casting by making a wax model which is then covered in clay and baked in a kiln. The wax melts away leaving a mould of the model which can then be filled with molten metal to produce an object. 

Small metal grips that hold a gemstone in place. 

A style of ring traditionally used as a wedding band. The band is uniform all the way around with softly rounded edges. 

A style of chain where links have been twisted and flattened.